Restaurant Review: The Loveable Rogue East End

Keith McIntyre discovers the wonders of brunch at The Loveable Rogue East End restaurant in Glasgow.

WHEN Joe Lazzerini and Amalia Colaluca opened the original Loveable Rogue in 2020 in the midst of a pandemic, it looked like a risky proposition for everyone involved. Fast forward two years and not only has the West End restaurant established itself as one of Glasgow’s best-loved gastropubs, but the couple recently opened a second restaurant, this time in Dennistoun, where the city centre meets the East End.

The Loveable Rogue East End is, however, no carbon copy of its older sibling. The newcomer is a proper neighbourhood restaurant specialising in brunches. Yes, you read that right – brunches. Does anyone actually know what a brunch is?

If you have a vision of a big greasy fry up served to folk who are either too lazy or too hungover to get up at a decent time, think again. This is proper unctuous posh food at reasonable prices in delightfully chic surrounding all cooked in an open kitchen for everyone to see.

We visited on a brutally cold, snowy afternoon and were desperately in need of some warm comforting food – and that was exactly what we got. Thankfully there was no sign of the artery-clogging “Full Scottish” on the menu, with the list instead offering an inventive twist on all things breakfast. You could choose from: a loaded rosti, topped with bacon, eggs, and black pudding; a Rogue muffin, which is a heady mixture of sausage, bacon, egg, and sriracha hot sauce; or the mushroom royale, which mixes wild mushrooms with delicious Gruyère cheese.

After much deliberation, I opted for the roast wrap with my partner choosing the piece ‘n’ fish. The wrap contained – wait for it… sticky brisket, garlic roasties, crushed veg, mac ‘n’ cheese, mustard mayo and red wine gravy. No way should all that work, but I absolutely loved every moreish bite. I almost wished I had a hangover, because I am certain this would be the ultimate cure – an absolute comfort food classic.

My companion’s choice, a poshed-up version of a fish finger sandwich, was also delicious, with a chunky breadcrumbed fish fillet served on doorstep bread and slathered in tangy homemade tartare sauce. As a minor criticism, the bread-to-fish ratio might need to be adjusted to allow the fish to really shine. Special mention also for the side of hash browns, which were crispy, crunchy, and fluffy in equal measure, the exact opposite of every horrible hash brown that I have endured over the years.

I’m not sure that you’re supposed to serve dessert with brunch (is that against the rules?) but the temptation of salted caramel tart and clotted cream proved too much for both of us. Frankly it might just be the best dessert I’ve eaten this year. I expected it to be a dense, sweet treat that would leave my fillings jangling but it was the lightest most beautifully balanced piece of pastry that I’ve eaten in a long time – a triumph.

Opening a restaurant that specialise in brunch – although Sundays will see a proper roast dinner on the menu – may be seen as risky, but judging by the satisfied murmurs and compliments coming from adjoining tables, the East End edition of The Loveable Rogue is here to stay.

The Loveable Rogue East End is open from 9am-3pm Tuesday to Saturday and from noon to 9pm on a Sunday.

Plus, read more news and reviews on Scottish Field’s food and drink pages, in association with Cask & Still magazine.