Review: Kinara, Glasgow

Ellie Forbes tries out one of Glasgow’s newest Indian restaurants, Kinara.

I haven’t been lucky enough to visit India. 

Friends who have made the trip have regaled me with stories of the incredible food, but plans to visit have just sadly never come to fruition.

Recently, however, I was treated to a gastronomic voyage around India by chef Shabu Natarajan at his new restaurant in Glasgow, Kinara – which means ‘river banks’ and ‘cutting edge’ in Hindi. 

Kinara, which opened at the end of last year, is the next rung on the ladder for the chef who spent years at the helm of the city’s Madras Cafe – last year voted the best Indian restaurant in Scotland.

Award-winning chef Shabu Natarajan.

Natarajan’s hope for the restaurant is to show Indian cuisine in a new light, taking on more of the country’s traditional dishes in a relaxed, homely atmosphere. 

From the spice-laden dishes of the Mughal emperors to the coastal delights of the South, Kinara, the menu traverses the length and breadth of India.

We started with some poppadoms and chutneys before moving straight into the starters, succulent tandoori Monkfish, aromatic with spices and fragrant herbs, crispy chicken pakora and Hariyali chaat – spinach and potato lentil fritters, crowned with potatoes and chickpeas, topped with a tangy yoghourt and spicy chutney.

Then it was onto the mains, Chandni chicken tikka from the tandoori menu which was fantastic. Infused with fiery Guntur chilli powder, it had great heat. The Kashmiri lamb rogan josh was delicious, most likely the best I have ever had, the incredibly tender meat luxuriating in the rich sauce. 

The breads – a paratha and a garlic naan – were lovely, and the basmati rice was cooked well.

And to top it all off, the service was impeccable. Our waiter gave us insightful explanations into the cultural and traditions around each dish, what part of India they came from and how they are enjoyed there, which was a lovely touch. 

I might not have made it to India, but my trip to Kinara has answered my prayers in the meantime.