Review: The Seafood Ristorante, St Andrews

Chief Sub-Editor Rosie Morton returns to St Andrews in celebration of The Seafood Ristorante’s 20^th anniversary

St Andrews speaks to the heart of so many. And as I gazed out the window of The Seafood Ristorante onto West Sands’ dancing waves, I was reminded of why it is held so dear in mine.

It’s a place I called home for four years as a student. But it is, of course, much, much more than that.

It’s a town with a 600-year ‘town and gown’ history; it’s a global Mecca for the most celebrated golfers; and it has cocooned and nurtured our future king and queen. That’s before we mention its obvious links to our dear old patron saint.

It’s a hive of tourist activity. So, it’s no wonder that the Auld Grey Toon also acts as a magnet for incredible culinary talent. Its food scene is fit for the epicurean gods.

The glass-fronted Seafood Ristorante has arguably been the lifeblood of that reputation for the best part of twenty years. It is one of the town’s most cherished venues and has become synonymous with high-quality, locally sourced seafood, innovative culinary techniques and some of the most enviable views in Fife.

It stands proudly overlooking the town’s most iconic beach and has now earned its place in The Michelin Guide. Though I was tempted to enjoy a Chariots of Fire moment along West Sands, I was instead here to try the restaurant’s 20th anniversary ‘Icons’ menu which features some of its most popular dishes from the past two decades.

The dining room space was open, inviting. The sea-green and stone-coloured accents married beautifully with the coastal setting and the open kitchen allowed diners an insight into what a calm, efficient service looks like. Dishes were carefully plated by Executive Chef Davy Aspin and his team, then carried to tables by quietly assured waiting staff. Owner Stefano Pieraccini smoothly brought everything together front of house, acting like mortar to the bricks of a superb team.

 

It should be noted that our visit was on a cold, dark Tuesday evening, yet the dining room was full. There’s no doubt that people vote with their feet, so to see the place buzzing with activity was a sign we were in for a treat.

The first dish to arrive was a beauty – a hand-dived Orkney scallop in a ‘white curry’. It was, quite simply, heavenly. The Thai green-inspired sauce was unbelievably rich and creamy and the scallop was beautifully caramelised. Homemade bread, served oven-warm with salted butter from The Edinburgh Butter Co, was laid on the table as an accompaniment to ensure that not a drop of that sauce went to waste.

Next up came the equally memorable Anstruther Lobster Ravioli with a spiced shellfish bisque. The linguine equivalent is a dish that was reintroduced to the menu in 2017 using lobster that was landed by a dedicated East Neuk boat. The silky smooth bisque had a lovely, subtle heat to it and the lobster filling was generous and satisfying.

 

 

The star of show, however, was the Steamed Day Boat Halibut dish, served with mussel and butter tartare sauce. Stefano told us that it had been on the menu since they opened in 2004 and it’s easy to see why. I’ve been reviewing food for nearly seven years and this fish dish far surpassed any other in recent memory. The buttery sauce was salty and silky, the halibut was so tender that it could have been pulled apart with a spoon and the young leeks added a lovely texture.

Had that been the meal’s curtain call I’d have left an exceedingly happy customer. But no – pudding was still to be served. ‘There’s a little surprise inside,’ our servers told us. Without wanting to spoil it for you, coffee connoisseurs and chocolate devotees will likely feel they’ve landed in some gastronomic paradise.

To say that this was the most idyllic dinner experience would be to do it an injustice.

You’re sitting amidst extraordinary natural beauty; you’re in a town that is globally revered; and you’re tucking into local dishes that will live long in the memory. That, dear readers, is one of life’s purest luxuries.

The ‘Icons’ menu is priced at £80 for two courses and £95 for three courses.
For more information about The Seafood Ristorante and its 20th anniversary celebrations, please visit their website.
Instagram: @theseafoodsta
The Seafood Ristorante, Bruce Embankment, St Andrews KY16 9AB.

 

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