A Dram With Euan Campbell, The Scotch Malt Whisky Society: ‘We’re pushing boundaries but respecting the heritage of this centuries old drink.’

Whisky drinkers all over the world have likely heard of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society. Since the whisky club was first formed in 1983, it has made a name for itself as an industry innovator, bottling casks with unique and flavoursome profiles.

We caught up with Euan Campbell, Head of Whisky Creation at the SMWS to learn more about his background, his favourite drams and what goes into choosing a cask.

Hello Euan. Can you introduce yourself?

I am currently head of whisky creation at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. I have been with the club for just over 16 years. My whisky journey started at university when I landed a job in a whisky shop between terms. After I graduated, I moved to Edinburgh and joined the bar team at The Vaults in Leith, which is our spiritual home. That was back in 2008. I’ve had an active role in managing our whisky stocks since 2013 and been in my current position for around two and a half years.

What inspired your career in whisky? Did you have any misconceptions about the industry before entering?

From a young age I remember whisky being a part of many a celebration, be it Hogmanay, birthdays or a family holiday to Islay. My father worked in the trade, having started out as a brewer. My family lived at Tormore distillery when I was born.

I used to buy miniatures of different malts and would enjoy them with my better half. We’d write tasting notes and give them ratings. It was a fun way to explore the wide world of single malts and sparked a real interest that led me on this career path. All of that combined certainly provided some inspiration.

I don’t know whether I had any misconceptions, but I’d say you want to avoid pre-conceptions. Judge each cask on its own merits and you will always be surprised and learn something new.

SMWS, The Vaults, Leith. Photograph: Mike Wilkinson…18/10/23 Copyright: Mike Wilkinson. www.mike-wilkinson.com

You’ve been at The Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) in various roles for over 16 years. How has the trajectory of your career at SMWS shaped your views on whisky?

I’ve been lucky enough to taste thousands of whiskies, mainly from Scotland, but also from around the world. Each one adds to your experience and helps to build a giant mind map of flavour references.

SMWS is a great place for experiencing the breadth of malt whisky, and we’ve done a lot of experimentation over the years too. 

My mantra would be to stay open minded, see what you can learn from each glass and think about how you can put that knowledge to future use. Don’t be too stuck in traditional ways of thinking but equally understand that certain methods or styles exist and prevail for a reason. We’re pushing boundaries but respecting the heritage of this centuries old drink.

For those new to the SWMS, could you give a quick rundown of their history and what they do?

The club was started in the early 1980’s by a gentleman called Pip Hills. He acquired a cask of whisky from a Speyside distillery and shared it with his friends, unblended, unfiltered and undiluted. From that flavour epiphany grew the international club that we are today. We still offer that same experience to our members, specialising in single cask, cask strength, single malt Scotch whisky.

That said, we have expanded our offer over the years to include world whiskies, experimental  small batch and blended malt whiskies as well as other delicious matured spirits like rum and Armagnac. If you want to experience an ever-changing selection of top quality whiskies, SMWS is the place to be.

What factors do you consider when choosing a cask for SMWS?

There are many things to consider, and for us it is about balancing objective technical assessment with subjective enjoyment (that is what it’s for after all).

Has the whisky reached the level of maturity you’d expect for the age? Does the dram have any unique talking points? Does it match your expectations of the cask type and distillery, and if not, is it still a great whisky regardless?

There’s also the ‘armchair test’. You move away from the technical analytical side of things and think about how the dram makes you feel, what it reminds you of, is it a tasty drop? This is how most of our members will enjoy the whisky, so it must pass this test too.

Do you gravitate towards a certain flavour profile?

For me it would have to be a well-aged unpeated Speyside or Highland malt, matured for a couple of decades in refill bourbon wood. For me the notes of ripe apples, honey and polished oak are absolute perfection.

Out of the casks you have chosen, which is your favourite to date?

My favourite to date is probably Society cask 7.55. This was a 40 year old Speyside whisky laid down in 1968, matured full term in a 1st fill sherry butt and named “Liquid heaven”. Oh my, what a dram.

Were there any wildcards? Any casks that have surprised you?

Cask no. 134.18 (called ‘Ham and lobster apple crumble’), a 4 Year Old single malt from Goa, India. This is an example of how maturation in a tropical climate can have a unique impact on a whisky. It is incredibly rounded, with tropical fruit notes and a lovely backbone of peat. 

What is your controversial/unpopular whisky opinion?

I wouldn’t say it’s controversial, but it always irks me when people say that peat is an acquired taste. As I said before, throw away your preconceptions and you might surprise yourself.

What is your go-to dram and what is the dram you have as a treat?

I always have a bottle of the JG Thomson Sweet Blended Malt on my shelf. It’s so easy going yet full of flavours like coconut and vanilla. Very versatile too whether you enjoy your whisky in a nosing glass, a tumbler with ice or an old-fashioned cocktail.

I’m lucky enough to have a few special bottles on my shelves. The kind where you say, ‘I’ll open that on a special occasion’. Well, the good news is that the next special occasion is when the last one of those bottles is finished. Whisky should be enjoyed, so I’d urge people to open those sorts of bottles. There is no time like the present and it will never be here again.

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