A dram with Stewart Walker, Fettercairn Distillery: ‘All whiskies have a home, there’s a whisky for everyone’

Steeped in a rich history and aged finely like the golden spirit it distils, Fettercairn Distillery has seen a lot of change through the years.

Founded in 1824 by Sir Alexander Ramsay, the landowner and businessman was among the first to apply for a licence to make whisky after campaigning for regulation.

Unfortunately, he fell on hard times and his estate along with the distillery was sold to the Gladstone Family of which included a familiar name with a big impact on the Scotch Whisky Industry – William Gladstone, British Prime Minister from 1868 to 1894.

The distillery changed hands a couple of times before landing in Whyte & Mackay’s portfolio in 1973.

It has its core range with a 12, 16 and 24YO along with a selection of limited releases and rare whiskies.

This year the distillery celebrated their 200^th anniversary with an ultra-rare collection of six malts with only ten released to the world.

We asked Stewart Walker, Distillery Manager at Fettercairn Distillery about his career path, inspirations, his favourite drams and his day-to-day life at Fettercairn.

Tell us a little about your career?

I’ve worked at the distillery for more than three decades, perfecting my craft under the tutelage of Master Whisky Makers and cultivating our enlightened approach to whisky making. 2024 marked Fettercairn’s bicentennial year and a career highlight for me – introducing our 200^th Anniversary Collection.

The collection is comprised of six remarkable Single Malts ranging from three to 60 years old. Together the whiskies have a combined age of 200 years and, individually, they tell an important part Fettercairn’s story. Just 10 sets of the collection are available worldwide and each is housed in a handmade, Scottish oak cabinet, created from wood sourced on our estate.

It’s been incredible to see the response to this extra-special collection and to reflect on two centuries of imaginative whisky making, knowing that what we’re laying down today will be enjoyed for generations to come.

What made you want to enter the world of distilling? What were your inspirations?

I initially began my career in farming but when a job as a warehouse man at the distillery came up, I jumped at the opportunity. Over the past 35 years, I’ve done just about every production role at Fettercairn, from mashman to stillman and then distillery brewer before becoming manager in 2015.

Whisky has always been extremely special to me. We are crafting something uniquely Scottish that is enjoyed the world over to mark occasions and I’m proud of that.

Joining the team at Fettercairn, I was inspired to continue the legacy of whisky making from the generations that came before me. I would never say that I run the distillery, to my mind I’m just looking after it for the next generation to take the reins.

What is a typical day like in the life of a Fettercairn distiller?

A typical day doesn’t really exist which is why I love what I do.

A fundamental part of my role is acting as guardian for the precious spirits being nurtured and matured in our 14 dunnage warehouses.

When I’m not in the warehouse, I can often be found in our visitor centre, welcoming guests before showing them around the distillery. I also introduce Fettercairn to whisky drinkers around the world through various shows and trips, sharing my passion and knowledge of our exciting Single Malt.

What do you want people to know about the whisky distilled at Fettercairn?

The ethos of Fettercairn whisky makers is a commitment to doing things differently and asking ‘what if’.

In the 1950s, this natural curiosity inspired my predecessor to create a lighter spirit, leading to the addition of cooling rings on each of our stills.

The same cooling rings remain in place today, drenching the outside of the stills with fresh mountain water, allowing the temperature to cool and only the lightest vapours to rise. This innovation is what gives Fettercairn its distinctly tropical house style.

What is the most exciting part about your job and what is the most mundane?

It is the simple parts of my job that I often appreciate the most. Stepping into one of the warehouses on site will never lose its magic for me. I love to close the door and enjoy the beautiful aromas before nosing and sampling the whisky. It never gets old.

It’s so rewarding to know that, inside every barrel, whisky we’ve created is slowly maturing, taking on the flavours of our Highland home.

The most mundane part of the job is definitely the paperwork.

Can you share the memory of your first dram?

My first whisky was a blended malt enjoyed with a group of friends that I grew up with. Although it wasn’t the best dram I’ve ever tasted, it didn’t put me off trying different whiskies. My years at Fettercairn have definitely honed my palate.

We drink whisky at important milestones – at weddings and family celebrations. Whisky creates memories, and the wonderful thing is that just nosing a dram can bring back those memories and take you back to those times when you’ve enjoyed it before.

What is your unpopular whisky opinion?

I’m not sure if it’s controversial, but for me all whiskies have a home, there’s a whisky for everyone, and I would never say that there is a bad whisky.

What is your go-to dram and what is the dram you have as a treat?

My go-to dram is our 12 year old Fettercairn. It is a lovely whisky, showcasing our house style of tropical fruit with hints of soft spice. It is light, easy to drink and a great introduction to our range of whiskies.

For a treat I would go for a Fettercairn 18 year old. It has a beautiful golden amber colour and the tastes here are layered, with patisserie spices and sugars complementing flavours of passion fruit and guava.

What is your favourite dram at Fettercairn?

My all-time favourite is Fettercairn 28 Year Old. It’s unique depth of flavour – which adds a hint of warm ginger and liquorice to our signature house style – is a tribute to our treasure trove of aged whisky.

There’s nothing more special than sharing a dram of 28 Year Old with friends and family to mark a special occasion.

What dram from another distillery are you enjoying at the moment?

I really enjoy a dram of Aberlour A’bunadh, a Speyside whisky that has the smooth fruitiness you would expect along with more robust and intense notes.

I’m also a fan of the whiskies from Nc’nean, an organic single malt Scotch whisky on the West Coast of Scotland. The distillery is powered by 100% renewable energy, and they use only organic Scottish barley to make some lovely light and fruity whiskies.

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