Review: Bonnar’s is a hidden gem in Edinburgh’s fine dining scene

It’s hard to believe that the grand 18th century baronial building that now houses The Scott Hotel, tucked away peacefully within Pollock Estate in Edinburgh’s Southside, was once a halls of residence for students. The high ceilings, ornate fireplaces and wood panelling are just a few of the impressive period features that have been preserved. Hogwarts, eat your heart out!

But I’m here to do more than admire the interior design. Because the hotel has recently opened Bonnar’s restaurant, named in homage to the Scottish architect and interior designer Thomas Bonnar. The elegant dining room isn’t huge, with 28 covers, but it is breathtakingly beautiful. The original rococo ceiling fresco designed by Bonnar is resplendent, there’s a beautiful stone fireplace and the huge, drape-lined bay windows looks out across the manicured gardens and croquet lawn. And I’m back on the interior again. It really is that impressive.

We’re here to sample the five course tasting menu, which. priced at £65 offers great value for money. Italian chef Pier Berretta has committed to working with a raft of excellent local suppliers and designed the menu around some wonderful Scottish produce and it is all the better for it.

Kicking off proceedings is a light and fresh plate of baby gem and roasted garlic with a herby lovage beurre blanc. Next was one of my highlights of the evening, a single plump scallop served in its shell with just a hint of spice to offset its perfectly nutty sweetness. Simple, but perfect.

A chunk of flaky cod, with lightly roasted cauliflower and a rich fumet emulsion was perfectly cooked and presented. By the fourth course we were ready for some meat and were not disappointed by the roe venison topped with green peppercorns. I loved the piquant shaved daikon accompanying the perfectly pink meat.

Coming in a close second behind the scallop for the dish of the evening was the impressive pud. A wonderfully tart blackberry sorbet, with fresh blackberries, a rich chocolate mousse and crunchy buckwheat, it was as pretty as it was tasty and perfectly rounded off what was a very impressive and well-balanced meal.

Wines can be ordered by the glass to pair with the food or by the bottle, with a good selection of biodynamic and organic wines to choose from. And I’d recommend making time for pre, or post-dinner cocktails in the elegant velvet lounge.

Alongside the obvious historical grandeur of The Scott, I love the fact that they have chosen modern artworks by Scottish artists to adorn the walls and even locally produced toiletries and candles by Laura Thomas in the restrooms. There’s a commitment to locality here that covers the food and much more. This is fine dining in fine surroundings, book it while you still can.

Tables are available to book from Tuesday – Saturday.

www.bonnars.co.uk

Bonnar’s
The Scott Hotel, 18 Holyrood Park Road, Edinburgh EH16 5AY
Tel: 0131 651 2011