Review: In with the new at Dishoom this autumn

As usual, there’s a queue outside Dishoom, despite the fact that it’s a quite unremarkable Tuesday evening in early October. Or is it? Because, we’re here to be some of the first people to try out what is a momentous occasion at this stalwart of Edinburgh’s St Andrew Square dining scene.

A brand new menu awaits and as we’re whisked past the – in some places nonplussed and in others downright grumpy – queue to sample some of the Bombay-inspired restaurant’s latest creations, we can’t wait to discover the first evolution of the menu since the group’s 2010 launch. It’s a menu that has been crafted after several food research trips abroad, where Dishoom’s chefs tasted an extraordinary 100 dishes a day to ensure that only the best flavour combinations came home with them.

We’re ensconced beneath the spinning celling fans, sipping a chai and enjoying the bustling atmosphere when the first wave of newness appears. We’re sharing everything, which is a blessing when we realise just how much food we’re going to be presented with.

We get enthusiastically stuck into a platter of chota papads, hexagonal prism-shaped spiced poppadom puffs dipped in Dishoom’s very own house mango chutney. It’s a great start, and my colleague Rosie quickly vows to take her spice-loving family members for a Dishoom visit on the back of that chutney alone.

Then there’s up-to-date pau, aromatic spiced lamb mince with a pleasant kick and a gentle warmth from the lindi pepper served with rich, buttery pau which is reminiscent of brioche and is perfect to scoop up the earthy lamb and sweet peas. It’s perfect fare for an autumn evening. The fish amritsari was tender with a deliciously crisp batter and was perfect with the aforementioned mango chutney and a warm aubergine chutney. We’re also treated to a classic and fabulous house chaat, which isn’t new, but would have been a sin to miss with its array of crisp, warm, creamy and punchy flavours. But for those wanting to try something different, they have added a tasty tandoori chaat with a tangy lime and chilli dressing, with chunks of pineapple, padrón peppers and sweet potato to the mix.

Dishoom Fancy House Salad

Mains come in the shape of a stunningly rich sail boti with tender lamb chunks and a Goan monkfish curry (inspired by a small restaurant called Gable’s in Colaba) which was creamy and fragrant with coconut, tart kokum, toddy vinegar and tamarind – perfect when scooped up with the irresistible garlic nan. Blackened butterfly prawns (born of the raucous fish market of South Bombay) served in their shells and velvety spiced paneer soon disappear, as does the refreshing Dishoom fancy house salad, a fabulous jumble of leaves, wheat, pickled beetroot and glazed cashews with a Goan coconut toddy vinegar dressing.

Monkfish Curry

By now I’m sipping on another house chai and wondering how on earth I’m going to manage to try out the new desserts, but my spirits are buoyed by the arrival of a coconutty fruit crumble. It’s like a very naughty granita muddled with fruit and topped with balls of the creamiest coconut ice cream. Like all of the desserts it is heaven for those with a sweet tooth, but I cannot resist. There’s an orange caramel custard that’s light and adorned with a segment of Terry’s Chocolate Orange and a Kala Khatta, a base layer of almond mascarpone cream is the foil for a fruity and insanely sweet iced fruit topping. If my dentist were not very much alive and kicking he’d be turning in his grave.

We’ve enjoyed a hearty feast in great company and I’ve lost count of how many recommendations for the famous Dishoom breakfast I’ve received during the course of the evening. If I ever needed a reason to return then the new menu and the fact I’ve yet to sample breakfast are all the excuses I’ll ever need.

3a St Andrew Square
Edinburgh
EH2 2BD

Tel: 0131 202 6406

www.dishoom.com