Morag Bootland finds the perfect way to beat the winter blues at Liberté Brasserie.
It’s fairly normal to hibernate through January, right? But if you haven’t yet successfully shaken off the shackles of your post-festive slump then I can recommend a great way to regain your social liberté.
Despite the very French moniker, Liberté bills itself as a European-inspired brasserie, featuring the finest Scottish ingredients. Bravo! But before we head into the dining space, with it’s classy parquet floors and stylish velvet banquette seating, we’re kicking our social lives back into action with a drink in the equally stylish Bar 1819, Liberté’s very own cocktail lounge. One very spicy marg, and a deliciously smoky pamplemousse (Liberté’s take on a classic paloma) later and it’s as if January never existed.
Struggling to choose just one starter and one main each (I blame the seemingly unstoppable proliferation of small plate eateries) we decide to share and share alike. Starters of a rich Balvenie smoked salmon, offset by a creamy, citrussy lemon crème fraiche and a pleasantly briny herring roe, and an incredibly generous plateful of baby gem leaves stuffed with a moreish salty concoction of bacon, garlic, pecorino cheese and crisp sourdough crumbs go down a treat.
Next comes the highlight of the meal for me. Fillet of cod, flaky and perfectly cooked it made the ideal platefellow for a generous sprinkling of garlicky mussels, meaty crayfish and fresh samphire, all blanketed in a silky brown butter sauce. Heaven! The tender sirloin steak was cooked perfectly to order and accompanied by a hearty portion of French fries (what else) and a rich peppercorn sauce. I’d recommend the broccoli, winter greens and pecorino with truffle oil on the side for a nod to eating your greens which in reality is probably just as naughty as the delicious French fries with black garlic aioli.
A wee break is in order to appreciate the European wine list, the focus is on France and while we had kicked off proceedings with a glass of Champagne, we’re drawn east to Italy by a cheeky Marchesi Ervani rosé pinot grigio, which is great value at £34 a bottle.
Carrying on in the spirit of fraternité, we’re sharing again when it comes to dessert. I’m tempted by the on trend matcha crème brûlée, but instead plump for the pear, cherry and almond tart, with a decadent clotted cream ice cream. It would be remiss of me not to mention the service. In both the bar and brasserie everyone was friendly, helpful and funny, which along with great food and excellent company is just what is needed on emerging from winter hibernation.
Liberté Brasserie, Apex Waterloo Place Hotel, 23-27 Waterloo Place, Edinburgh EH1 3BG. 0800 049 8000.
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