Review: The Bonnington reopens with a touch of Peruvian flair

I’ll be honest. You could write what I know about Peru down on a very small post-it note and still have space to remind yourself to buy bread and milk. So, it came as a surprise that the South-American country became a bit of a theme on a day that I fell asleep while watching Paddington in Peru at the cinema with my son (not a reflection on the film, more on my age and the ridiculously comfy seats in modern cinemas) and then had the pleasure of visiting the latest incarnation of The Bonnington.

Situated on the corner of Bonnington Road and Newhaven Road, this Leith local was taken over late last year by Carlo Carozzi, who some of you may know as the owner of ‘The Peruvian’, his award-winning street food venture at Edinburgh Street Food.
With an emphasis on cocktails the newly refurbished bar is split into a cosy cocktail bar and a dining room with comfy booths serving up small and large plates with a Peruvian slant.

Pisco Sour

We kick off proceedings with a classic pisco sour. It’s been a while, but this refreshing blend of Peruvian grape spirit with lime, sugar and egg white on the rocks, was just what the doctor ordered. Enjoyed along with homemade, salty pork scratchings and pickled mussels on toast, while we deliberated on the menu. I’m a fan of sharing plates and was tempted by the salt baked parsnips with pear, blue cheese and hazelnuts, not to mention the chips with truffle mayo and Isle of Mull Cheddar. But Mr B has never been great at sharing so we plump for small plate starters – a wonderfully piquant coronation fried cauliflower for me and crisp and meaty monkfish cheeks with homemade tartare sauce for him.

With just three large plates to choose from I stick with the veggie option of a perfectly tender Hokkaido Squash and green beans in a fiery Makhani tomato sauce served up with a flatbread. My B is nodding appreciatively as he demolishes The Bonnington Cheesesteak sandwich and a hearty portion of crispy chips. The steak was perfectly tender and blanketed in a generous portion of melted cheese.

Coronation Fried Cauliflower

We’re both struggling to consider dessert and enjoy a wee break to contemplate our surroundings and have a peek at the cocktail bar. There’s a nice mix of clientele here on a late Sunday afternoon. Young families enjoying food and drinks in the dining area, while the cocktail shakers are being kept busy by a younger crowd in the bar. Carlo is a well-kent face on the Edinburgh cocktail scene, having worked in The Voodoo Rooms and Dragonfly and it is his ambition to make this a destination for the city’s cocktail afficionados.

Another pisco on order and we decide to share a creamy Meyer Lemon Crème Brulee, served up with some homemade shortbread that would have made my old Granny proud.

We leave wishing that The Bonnington was a bit closer to our home and considering how nice it would be to pop in for a Pisco after work to appreciate the friendly staff, great grub, awesome cocktails and relaxed atmosphere.

The Bonnington is open 7 days a week from 12 noon until midnight, and until 1 am on Fridays and Saturdays.

The Bonnington, 284 Bonnington Road, Edinburgh EH6 5BE
Tel: 0131 563 2103
thebonningtonleith.com