In a Nutshell, Chef Pier Berretta, Bonnar’s at The Scott in Edinburgh: ‘I love pineapple on pizza. I think it is genius’

Head Chef Pier Berretta takes the helm at Bonnar’s in Edinburgh, located at The Scott. He talks to Scottish Field about his favourite ingredients, his culinary mentor and the most he’s paid for a meal.

What’s the closest thing you have to a signature dish?

It has to be the roasted new lettuce, with a rich lovage beurre blanc. It’s so simple, yet so effective, been on the Bonnar’s menu since day one and changes according to the season.

Describe your style of cuisine in ten words?

Seasonal. Sustainable. Clean. Honest. Instinctive.

Best and/or most memorable meal you’ve ever eaten?

Davies & Brook in London, when Daniel Humm was at the helm. The food was impeccable, and the service was just as incredible. 

Worst/weirdest thing you’ve ever eaten? 

I had eaten ants when I was working at Noma, in Copenhagen. They are surprisingly very acidic, almost like a crunchy lemon drop! 

Worst thing you’ve ever cooked? 

I was 16 and I cooked pasta for my friends using lots of coriander, mistaking it for parsley. It was awful. 

What’s the dish that you’re most proud of having cooked? 

I made this short rib ragu with chipotle chilli and smoked butter for me and my girlfriend one weekend in the winter. It’s so memorable, we still talk about it to this day.

Favourite ingredient (could be an ingredient or spice which transforms dishes): 

A deep-yellow cultured butter, that we make in-house and serve.

Your go-to recipe book? 

It’s a battle between Anthony Bourdain’s Les Halles, the first Eleven Madison Park and Forgotten Skills of Cooking by Darin Allen.

What other country’s cuisine really excites and intrigues you? 

Mexican. I like the freshness and simplicity of ingredients. The mole sauce itself is such a mysterious work of art.

Most you’ve ever paid for a meal? 

€300 at a Michelin star restaurant in Rome called Metamorfosi, which has now since closed. 

Your favourite Scottish chef?  

Mark Donald. Once you meet him, his passion for food and this craft is something you can’t forget.

Bonnar’s at The Scott.

Favourite chef outside Scotland? 

There are too many to count. If I had to pick, I would say James Lee from Fiskebaren in Copenhagen. James creates a cuisine that I love: using local fish, caught and cooked with immense finesse and passion. 

Who taught you to cook or ignited your passion for food as a youngster? 

My whole family serves as huge inspiration for my career in cooking. One of the highlights of my childhood was whenever my grandmother would take me to the food markets in Rome.

Most important lesson a young chef can learn? 

I would say the most important are: use critical thinking, clean as you go, and try to work with great chefs to get that ‘hands on’ experience. 

The most important person in your development as a professional chef? 

There have been many, but Dan Ashmore was the one who spent most time and was the most patient with me. We worked together in Pompadour in 2019, and he taught me a lot, making the worst, busiest shifts look like exciting days, full of potential and things to learn.

Best thing about the industry? 

The small, family-run restaurants. These establishments often bring a unique blend of innovation and tradition, allowing diners to experience authentic Scottish flavours of Scotland while supporting local businesses. I try and uphold this at Bonnar’s, championing local produce and the best larder our community has on offer.

Worst thing about the industry? 

The food supply chain. Changes to the grocery sector and trading rules can mean that domestic, seasonal Scottish produce can go to waste, while imports fill local supermarket shelves, increasing food miles and disrupting natural rhythms. Weather shifts, labour shortages, and complex logistics only worsen this gap.

What’s the biggest sin a chef can commit?

Sending out a dish that they know is not good enough.

What do you eat when you’re at home? 

Simple, soul-food. Basic ingredients. Lots of vegetables and ferments.

Celebrity guest or your perfect dinner party – who would you most like to cook for? 

Jack Black, Ian McKellen, Quentin Tarantino, Whoopi Goldberg and Jack Nicholson, all at the same table. I’d serve a grand 32-course tasting menu, to keep them there for as long as possible.

Tell me something about you that virtually no-one knows?

I love pineapple on pizza. I think it is genius.

What’s your favourite wine? 

I am not much of a drinker, but I enjoy a nice Barolo with a roast dinner.

Your spirit of choice? 

Brandy, for cooking.

Do you play music in the kitchen and, if so, what’s your go-to track or artist: 

Music belongs in a kitchen. It is the first thing I tell my team to start a shift with. Rodriguez for day-time preparation, then Iron Maiden for the pre-service boost.

If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? 

A sailor who cruises the oceans, catching fresh fish and overfeeding his crew.

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