Review: An Autumnal Feast Night with Ballintaggart Farm

Rosie Morton was in for a treat when she headed for Ballintaggart’s Autumnal Feast Night in collaboration with the Isle of Harris Distillery…

There it was. A warm glow of lights, visible through raindrops, signalled my arrival at Ballintaggart Farm in Highland Perthshire. Night had fallen and only the quiet fluttering of birds’ wings amongst the leaves could be heard through the darkness. Had I returned to an autumnal paradise? I certainly thought so.

It was almost exactly a year since my stay at Ballintaggart’s exquisite Farmhouse – a secluded, serene, hillside retreat which overlooks the Tay Valley and sleeps up to 14 people. I’d already had the opportunity to sample executive chef and co-owner Chris Rowley’s incredible fare (his Venison Wellington will live long in the memory), but had earmarked a return visit for his storied Ballintaggart ‘Feast Nights’ which take place in the farm’s Steading.

Ballintaggart does Autumn…

For the unacquainted, Ballintaggart’s signature ‘Feasts’ promise seasonal dishes and local produce, served at a long, shared dining table. It’s a chance to spend quality time with friends and loved ones, as well as to make new acquaintances in beautiful surroundings. What’s more, the kitchen (which is also used for Chris’ Cookschool classes) is open, meaning that you can have a sneaky peek as each course is put together.

Though I had all of that information at my fingertips, I still wasn’t prepared for what was to come. It was, to me, the very best kind of Scottish hospitality. For one night only, Ballintaggart joined forces with the Isle of Harris Distillery to curate a unique dining experience. Late autumn flavours and beautiful produce were paired with the distillery’s celebrated Isle of Harris Gin and their newly launched ‘Hearach’ single malt whisky.

Autumn branches bearing the last of the season’s leaves adorned the table. Guests took their pews, introduced themselves to their neighbours, and the candlelit dinner was ready to begin.

Isle of Harris Distillery collaborated with Ballintaggart for this years’ special Autumnal Feast.

To quash any urgent Friday-night hunger pangs, hunks of Ballintaggart’s homemade sourdough appeared in front of us. Ballintaggart is, in my humble opinion, the Holy Grail of sourdough. Slathered in whipped butter with sea salt and topped with Great Glen Charcuterie’s venison salami, I could have easily sat the whole night with this and a G&T and been very content.

But, as with my last visit, Chris and his team see it as their duty to ensure that nobody leaves the premises even remotely hungry. To start, Isle of Lewis mussels were served with thinly sliced fennel, silky Goan curry sauce and a beautiful, warm seaweed scone that echoed the subtle flavours of the sea from the mussels. To my left, Sam Cain, regional business manager from the Isle of Harris Distillery, was delighted to be tucking into his first ever mussel dish (and what a dish to start on); to my right, a group of four lifelong friends were toasting the night with ‘the perfect serve’ – a classic G&T with Fever Tree Mediterranean Tonic Water, Isle of Harris’ Sugar Kelp Water and a slice of pink grapefruit. It was the happiest, liveliest culinary chorus – glasses clinked, laughter echoed, and appreciative noises could be heard the length of the table.

Ballintaggart’s Feast Nights take place in The Steading.

The main course (and main event) was what I had most been looking forward to. I looked into the kitchen and saw trays upon trays of beautifully pink venison loin resting before being served.

The local meat was matched with a crunchy hash brown, fresh apple and sprout slaw, and smoked yoghurt (which was a total game-changer). I’d go as far as saying this was condemned-man’s-last-supper good. The highball serve consisting of Isle of Harris gin, pear Cognac, lime and cloudy apple was a sweet orchard pairing that brought out the apple flavours of the dish.

Venison Loin, Hash Brown, Apple & Sprout Slaw, and Smoked Yoghurt.

If we were being truthful, none of us really needed dessert. But to deny myself a Ballintaggart pudd would have been purgatory when the food had been so good, so I pushed on in the spirit of journalistic endeavour. The distillery’s ‘Hearach’ Old Fashioned whisky cocktail was paired with a sticky caramel rice pudding, ginger shortbread and burnt orange. My sweet tooth has somewhat diminished over the last few years, but this was a beautiful balance of subtle sweetness and spice that allowed that the single malt to really sing. One last surprise to end the evening included toasted marshmallows beneath the stars with a dram of The Hearach’s newest expression, Oloroso Cask Matured.

I was utterly spoiled and able to stay in the adjoining accommodation in The Steading – a gorgeous, restful space to lay my head after a lively night of revelry. It has two double bedrooms, two bathrooms, a living room with open fire and the most spectacular views. In the morning, I headed through to the sparkling clean kitchen (the same one used for the Feast Night) and stood looking out the window with a cup of tea. The mist was low on the Tay Valley, and a couple of pheasants teetered down the driveway, happily oblivious to the hack staring straight at them.

An evening with Ballintaggart really was the most idyllic way to spend ‘Samhain’ – the end of the harvest and the start of the wintery days. I’ve promised myself that I won’t leave it a whole year until my next visit.

If The Steading and The Farmhouse are full, guests can also stay in the Grandtully Hotel (also owned by Chris and his brother, Andrew, and is a mere five minutes down the road).

For more information on Ballintaggart and to book into one of their next Feast Nights, please visit their website.

The Steading accommodation overlooks the beautiful Tay Valley.

Try it yourself! Isle of Harris Distillery’s perfect serves…
Island Orchard
25ml Harris Gin
25ml Xante pear cognac
10ml lime juice
Fever Tree cloudy apple and mint soda
Build directly into a highball glass over cubed ice, add gin, xante and lime juice and stir to combine then top with the cloudy apple and mint soda. Garnish with a fresh green apple fan.

Old Fashioned
50ml Hearach
10ml Demerara Syrup
2 Dashes of Angostura Bitters
Add Hearach whiskey, demerara syrup and bitters into a mixing glass with cubed ice, stir to chill. Strain into a Harris tumbler glass over cubed ice or a large ice block. Garnish with an orange twist, making sure to express the oils across the surface of the cocktail.

For more information on Isle of Harris Distillery, please visit their website.

Isle of Harris Distillery’s Perfect Serve.

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