Richard Bath heads to Edinburgh’s first pacific-fusion restaurant to try out the offerings.
Cabo, which has taken over the space once occupied by Scotland rugby legend Simon Taylor’s bohemian 99 Hanover bar, is a month-old new eaterie marketed as sitting ‘at the intersection of Asian and Latin American cuisine, offering a unique Pacific fusion’ that covers everything from sushi to tacos.
The decor actually has more of a North African or Andalusian feel, but is definitely a huge change for this busy and atmospheric venue.
The menu is split into six sections – tacos, sushi, tartare, ceviche, mains and salads/sides – so we started with beef and mushroom tacos which, in all honesty, were fine but on the small side, a bit bland and struggled to justify the cost (£17 and £14 respectively).
The second of our four courses, a smallish plate of tuna ceviche, was a considerable upgrade, although at £25 the price tag still felt on the hefty side.
Our third course, a volcano roll of yellowfin tuna, cucumber, crab, queso fresco, Peruvian kimchi mayo and tobiko (£15) was good value and delicious.
But by far the best were our two big, filling main courses of lamb cutlets and butter poached halibut, which were well-cooked, delivered with new potatoes and brocolli, and which were decent value at £28 and £26 respectively.
Cabo, 99 Hanover St, New Town, Edinburgh. www.caborestaurant.co.uk
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