If you are someone who is skeptical about the whole, sharing-plates-delivered-when-they-are-ready, for fear you will leave the restaurant just as hungry as when you entered, I hear you.
But it’s hard to find anywhere on the foodie scene these days that hasn’t adopted this newfangled way of dining, and I think a few places are starting to get it right (finally).
Scoop Restaurants, the team behind Glasgow’s latest ‘it’ spots Margo and Sebbs – as well as the outstanding Ka Pao – has been knocking small plates out the park recently. But it was my recent trip to the newly re-opened beloved city staple, Ox & Finch, which has truly converted this sharing food cynic, because I think it would be impossible to leave the place hungry.
The restaurant’s new frontage is tiled in glossy emerald green and mustard in a nod to the distinctive entrance ways of Glasgow’s tenement buildings. Inside, it has a rustic edge thanks to a tile-backed open kitchen and wines displayed in a huge metal cage, while deep red tones add warmth to the space.
Our lovely waitress recommends a fabulous French Riesling as we start the meal with Freedom bakery sourdough and homemade butter. In all honesty, I could have gone home after the bread and been a very happy woman.
The duck liver parfait with negroni marmalade and toasted brioche is divine, rich and unctuous with the sweet marmalade providing the perfect balance. The barbecued mackerel crudo was a personal favourite, the slightly charred fish swimming in a bath of citrus dashi.
Next was the beef tartare. Not something I would usually order, but a friend who had recently visited said it was a must, and boy was she right. A whack of acidic capers through the perfectly diced meat was utterly delicious. And scooped up with crunchy crisps – this dish is a winner.
So far, so good, as we moved on to the bigger dishes of the menu with excitement.
The slow-cooked feather blade of beef was exceptional – tender and falling apart, served with a smooth pomme purée and rich bordelaise sauce. But it was the confit lamb shoulder that really blew me away, think the best kebab you have ever eaten. Spicy from the harissa, sharp with pickled cucumbers and all cooled with yoghurt.
I was surprised by the choice of puddings, which at these sorts of places are sometimes overlooked and padded with the same boring old choices you have seen a thousand times.
On the recommendation of the waitress, we opted for the salted caramel tart with buttermilk ice cream. I thought I had already eaten my best dessert of the year at Margo – a brown butter almond tart which seemed impossible to beat. But I was thrilled to be proved wrong with a hefty slab of this salted caramel delight. Truly wonderful. The rum baba, with or flavour of orange and vanilla cream was also very good.
Ox & Finch runs like a well oiled machine. The service is impeccable, the wine quite lovely, the food is fabulous and you actually leave feeling full and satisfied. Sharing plate skeptics unite. This Glasgow restaurant will avail all your fears and convert even the most strong willed doubter.
Ox & Finch. 920 Sauchiehall St, Finnieston, Glasgow G3 7TF. www.oxandfinch.com
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