Review: Sanja By Sagar Massey at The Kirkhouse Inn
He might only be 25-years-old, but Sagar Massey already has a career enviable by chefs twice his age.
Raised near New Delhi in India, until leaving for Scotland in 2014, he is renowned for using the spices of his homeland to embolden Scottish fine dining.
A finalist in the BBC’s Masterchef – The Professionals in 2022, he has worked at some of the finest restaurants in Scotland.
He already has spells at a number of Michelin Star restaurants under his belt, from Glasgow’s Cail Bruich to Restaurant Martin Wishart in Edinburgh and the Isle of Eriska Hotel in Benderloch.
It’s hard to imagine how someone so young could have such an accomplished career. But then you taste Sagar’s food and things start to add up.
The chef recently announced he has found a new home at The Kirkhouse Inn, in Strathblane, where he has launched a new fine dining concept – Sanja by Sagar Massey.
With a heritage spanning back to 1601, the Kirkhouse has a desirable location at the foot of the Campsie Hills. On the path of the John Muir Way, it’s the perfect spot for weary walkers.
Sanja’s interiors have been carefully curated by celebrity designer John Amabile. Dark green panelling, plush orange chairs and gold hardware, it’s Orient Express esque.
Having rooted for Sagar when he was on Masterchef, I am looking forward to finally having the chance to try his food for myself.
We are having the six course tasting menu which starts with a delicious spicy sea trout ceviche on a bed of goat’s curd, served alongside tangy balsamic beetroot.
Next we had an Indian street food dish, Aloo chaat. Crispy potatoes fried in spices and dunked in a cool, sweet yoghurt with mint, it was a show stopper.
Our fish course was masala halibut with curry sauce. The fish was perfectly cooked and the sauce had just the right amount of heat which was balanced well with some citrus fennel.
Then came the meat. A succulent rack of lamb which was pink and tender, the meat falling off the bone. The leg meat had been braised and turned into a fantastic little cake bursting with flavour. The aubergine bharta was very hot for my timid spice pallet, but a dollop of crème fraiche brought the whole thing together nicely.
The puddings were fantastic. First up, Yorkshire forced rhubarb cover in a dome of yoghurt, with white chocolate and a zingy rhubarb sorbet. Without a shadow of a doubt, the best rhubarb themed dessert I have ever had.
We finished with a rich chocolate and nutmeg mousse topped with a crunchy garam masala granola and a bitter orange caramel. The perfect ending to a fantastic meal (and for £60 a head, excellent value).
He might be young, but I think it’s a safe bet to assume the kind of accolades achieved at the restaurants where Sagar previously worked won’t be long in following him to The Kirkhouse.
When they do, I think it will be thoroughly well deserved.
The Kirkhouse Inn, Glasgow Rd, Strathblane, Glasgow G63 9AA. 01360 771771
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