Review: Six by Nico x Sole Club, Glasgow

Affordable fine dining is at the heart of everything chef Nico Simeone does.

The brains behind the super popular Six by Nico, his menus remain accessible despite his growing success and quest for culinary domination in Scotland.

His latest venture, Sole Club – a speakeasy-style fish restaurant – opened in the heart of Finnieston earlier this year. 

Six months on, the eatery is now paying homage to Nico’s origins with The Chippie Club, a love letter to Glasgow’s chip shops.

The six course tasting menu offers bold and modern twists on classic chippie favourites. The meal starts with delicious chunks of crusty sourdough bread and seaweed butter before the first course arrives – chip on a stick.

Spiralized discs of deep fried potatoes, it’s served with salt and vinegar powder, road garlic aioli and topped with crispy onion. For such a simple dish it’s sensational, and really feels like that longed for bag of chips on the way home from the pub.

Next was the kedgeree Scotch egg. A soft boiled egg wrapped in sticky rice and deep fried, topped with piccalilli ketchup and served in a bowl of lightly spiced velouté. 

The ultimate chip and cheese was spectacular. Confit potato in a rich, smoked cheddar sauce that I would have been happy to drink. 

The fish finger sando felt like a walk down memory lane. Every mouthful was nostalgic and brought me right back to cold evenings enjoying something similar with my grandparents. The crispy fish was cooked well and served with gribiche and pea pesto on toasted white bread.

Last up was the ultimate sausage supper (my go to choice at my local chippie). Succulent meat wrapped in wafer thin strands of fried potato. Burst of celeriac and smoked apple were a welcome reprieve from the richness of the dish.

Pud was an ice cream sundae and a very sour cherry pie – a perfect end to the meal. 

At just £35pp (and an extra £25pp for the drinks pairings), Sole Club really is the perfect spot if you are looking for fine dining without the hefty price tag.

It’s hard to keep up with all that chef Nico Simeone is doing, but I am glad to see it continues to be affordable, accessible and most importantly, delicious. 

Sole Club, 1132 Argyle St, Finnieston, Glasgow G3 8TD.

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