REVIEW: Into the wild at Loch Rannoch Hotel

Rosie Morton swapped Edinburgh city for an outdoorsy retreat by the banks of Loch Rannoch – and it spoke to the soul. 

Edinburgh has captured my heart over the last five years, but it is the enduring beauty of the hills that always steals it.

And so it was with no hesitation that I seized the opportunity to swap my city abode for a rural idyll. The four-star Loch Rannoch Hotel, Estate & Spa was to be my home for two summer nights.

I rounded the sharp corners of country roads, heading ever deeper into the rich Rannoch landscape which opened up in front of me. It was the words of conservationist, John Muir that echoed in my mind: ‘Come to the woods, for here is rest. There is no repose like that of the green deep woods.’

Indeed it was deep rest that was required after a busy spell of deadlines. Even more so as the thrilling – though often chaotic – Edinburgh Fringe schedule loomed on the horizon.

After just a two-hour drive, the striking white building of Loch Rannoch Hotel, which dates back to 1888, came into view. It is set on the banks of the loch, and overlooks the Black Wood of Rannoch to the west and the iconic Schiehallion to the east – a Munro that is also known as ‘the fairy hill of the Caledonians’.

Schiehallion views from Loch Rannoch Hotel.

At the helm is General Manager and Deputy General Manager, Hans and Reuben, and the hotel has been given a makeover to the tune of £3.5 million. The essence of the Rannoch retreat remains the same with paintings depicting tartan-clad clansmen, stags heads on the walls and tartan carpets, but the 52 bedrooms and suites have seen an understated facelift and the bathrooms rejuvenated to a high spec.

So, not only was the peaceful soundtrack of birdsong from my bedroom window relaxing, the comfort of being somewhere spick and span made it possible to fall even deeper into a state of calm. Perhaps my favourite touch was having an array of Highland Soaps’ Lemongrass & Ginger products to enjoy.

A room with a view.

The Whisky Bar and toasty fireplace.

It was, therefore, incredibly tempting to luxuriate in the room, or head to the fireside for a local gin cocktail, but my first priority was to stretch the legs and find a good vantage point for finding my bearings.

Thankfully outdoor leader, Carl was on hand to show the way up Craig Varr – a steep climb on the hotel’s doorstep. You don’t need to be superbly fit to take on Craig Varr (it takes just over an hour to reach the top) but a pair of stout walking boots is definitely required. The views over Loch Rannoch and Dunalastair Water are more than worth the effort and the fresh Kinloch Rannoch air fairly blows away the cobwebs.

The breath-taking views from an easy-to-reach walk up Craig Varr.

In my books, it’s all about taking the yin with the yang. So, burning off all those calories meant that dinner in Loch Rannoch Hotel’s ‘Wild Brownie Bar’, or the AA Rosette awarded ‘Estate Room’ was next on the cards.

Plenty of tastes and budgets are catered for here – the Wild Brownie Bar offers classic and contemporary pub grub including burgers, pasta dishes and Aberdeen Angus sirloin steak, while the Estate Room is a step up, offering indulgent fine dining in a more formal setting. (The Highland venison loin with red wine poached pear, pomme purée and port jus was the firm favourite, and I thoroughly enjoyed the Jackson Pollock-like presentation!)

Breakfast, meanwhile, is served in the Rannoch Larder, and ranges from grilled Loch Fyne kippers and poached eggs, to buttermilk pancakes with smoked bacon and maple syrup, to the simpler fare of cereals, pastries, fresh fruit and a selection of cold ham and cheese.

Highland Farmed Venison loin.

After fuelling up, it was time to take on another of the many activities on offer at Loch Rannoch.

The hotel offers enough indoor and outdoor activities to keep any adrenaline junkie entertained for days. I meandered down to the gym at the marina – which to my amazement was barely used – and it boasts one of the best fitness suite views I’ve ever seen. It features floor-to-ceiling windows and overlooks the loch. So, while you’re pounding the treadmill or pumping iron, you can watch the resident sheep walk by the window and spot some magnificent wildlife. (We were lucky enough to spot a juvenile golden eagle soaring overhead).

The Matrix gym looks on to Loch Rannoch.

If gyms aren’t your thing, there are paddleboards, kayaks, electric bikes, an outdoor and indoor climbing wall, volleyball, badminton and squash courts.

For me, this trip was an opportunity to try something new, so I met up with local ghillie, Gordon, to see if I could convince any brown trout or pike to bite. It drizzled, but the sound of the raindrops hitting the loch only added to the peaceful atmosphere. People have always told me that fishing is a wonderfully soothing pastime – an opportunity for good conversation and cups of tea to flow – and I couldn’t have been happier out on the water with Gordon for a couple of hours.

To my surprise, and to Gordon’s, I reeled in my first ever catch – a beautiful perch (which, I’m reliably informed by Gordon are bottom feeders, but a win’s a win as far as I’m concerned). We released him, admired the views once more, then headed for the shoreline.

Rosie’s first catch!

My retreat at Loch Rannoch Hotel would not have been complete without exploring the spa. The waiting room has muted pastel colours of pink and green, and the heavenly scents of ESPA products fill the air. Vanya Volovsek, my masseuse, asked me to fill in a straightforward consultation form before heading through to a beautiful treatment room that was flooded with natural light (thanks to a Velux skylight). Most spa experiences offer treatment rooms that cocoon you in darkness, but this was a welcome change – it tied in beautifully to the natural surroundings of the hotel.

I was heading for a full body Swedish massage (£95 for 90 minutes) which began with hot cloths over my feet. Vanya worked her way along my lower back and down my sides with rhythmical, repetitive, almost wave-like motions. This continued up into my shoulder blades – where I hold most of my tension – and down my arms, before turning me over, placing a warm cloth over my eyes, and continuing down the fronts of my legs, and over my décolletage, shoulders and scalp.

It was the closest I’ve ever come to napping on a spa treatment table. I caught myself no less than three times breathing heavily and having to consciously stop myself from diving into a deep slumber.

Spa Treatment Room flooded with natural light.

Loch Rannoch Hotel is, without doubt, a place of sanctuary. A place that highlights the positive state of quietude. A stay here was a reminder that no matter how wonderful city life is, it is the wilderness that speaks to the soul.

Nightly rates at Loch Rannoch start from £179 for 2 guests in a double room including full Scottish breakfast.
Find out more about Loch Rannoch Hotel on their website. 

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