Fred Berkmiller wants to help Scotland re-connect with food by breaking the stranglehold of supermarkets and teaching people to cook unusual cuts of meat.
Berkmiller also uses cuts of meat such as ox cheek or pigs’ trotters. This too is an ethical choice as the meat would otherwise be wasted.
But it also tastes good: Berkmiller admits that he may have served lambs’ testicles (or ‘white kidneys’) to customers a couple of times without telling them – but they enjoy the meal, and then come back for more.
As the man behind Edinburgh’s L’Escargot Bleu and L’Escargot Blanc, Berkmiller is passionate about helping people to reconnect with food.
He blames the supermarkets for destroying this connection in the 1980s by flooding the market with cheap cuts of certain meats and dictating how they should be cooked.
Now people are fighting back, rediscovering their local butcher and buying different cuts of meat.
(This recipe was originally published in 2015)
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